Bagan should be one of the wonders of the world. It is truly an inspiring and magical place.
The city is loosely populated and easy to maneuver but had just the right amount of energy and bustle.
The magic of driving around in search of thousand year old temples permeates the city.
I saw a goat scratch himself on an ancient pagoda. That’s an example of some of the goofy magic I experienced in Bagan.
I climbed many thousand year old Buddhist temples; each one was powerfully special and unique in its own way. That’s an example of some of the humbling magic I experienced in Bagan.
As I reflect on my day in Bagan, over my Myanmar beer and $3 magical curry, I am having trouble finding the words to describe this place. Moving around the streets on my e-bike (electric scooter) elicited a wide range of emotions, which isn’t typical of general commuting or transportation.
Simply put, I loved everything about it. It’s kind of like an adult Narnia, with a chose your own adventure book thrown into the mix.
The towns within Bagan: Old Bagan, New Bagan, and Nyuang U are each about 5-10 minute scooter ride between. I was headed to a lacquer shop in Old Bagan and figured I’d find a pagoda or 2 to pop my head into…I couldn’t have been more right. There are basically 2 main paved roads that run through Bagan, and all in between and around, popping out from lush greenery, completely exposed just two footsteps from the paved road, hidden almost completely by over green forest, and most commonly, down little dirt paths of varying length, are pagodas on top of pagodas on top of pagodas. I’d split off onto one path simply because I saw a peak of something beautiful that looked worth exploring
The streets are built on and around thousands of ancient pagodas. I spent my best days en route to a certain destination (the laquer shop where I made best friends with the owner), but found many temples, pagodas, and locals along the way. With no strict agenda, I was able to let the roads in Bagan guide me to my next destination and adventure. Like meeting the woman selling longyis outside a newer temple that I went in. She spoke very good English and was beckoning me to come to her stall so that she could put Thanaka, the Myanmar makeup/cureall that woman wear, on my cheeks. She sprinkled water on the stained Thanaka stone and swirled a thick stub of a Thanaka branch in it. She wiped the watery paste on my cheeks and nose, then used a twig to draw leaf designs on my cheeks. I ended up chatting with her for awhile and bought a longyi.
The swallows and little crows at sunrise and sunset, landing on the peaks of the pagodas.
I stumbled upon an impressively massive tourist-less temple (all of the ones this size or bigger usually had tourists). As I walk up, the lady from the family that runs it grabbed a flashlight and walked in with me. Turns out this temple has very intact plaster and paintings coverings the walls, from floor to ceiling. I grabbed my headlamp I brought everywhere, specifically for this reason! As our lights searched the walls, we illuminated paintings of elephants, and buddhas in different positions and scenes. Buddha cutting his hair, Buddha by the Bonzi tree, Buddha praying, Buddha fighting. It felt so personal and special! I felt like I was peering into the window of ancient history! 🙂
Leo and Leo’s restaurant! Restaurant st is buzzing and fun, but it can be easier to spend a few more bucks than necessary. I wandered off the main st for a half block and stumbled upon a scrumptious oasis: Leo’s. the lighting was calming and the relaxing western acoustic music was a beloved change of pace to the typical fast tempoed Myanmar beats, like a mildly more tolerable version of Bollywood..
Hurrying to grab beers and catch the first sunset with Marton, my Hungarian friend. We wanted less tourists and ended up climbing up a little pagoda for our own private sunset viewing!
Catching every sunset and sunrise. Scootering back to the guesthouse for breakfast around 730am, already feeling so accomplished and fulfilled.
Scootering around without a care in the world. With my only daily goal to be to explore temples and immerse myself in a culture.
My best friend at the lacquer shop
First sunrise, sick, sleepless and a few hours after the overnight bus, but I made it!
Sunrise wedding photo shoot was a fun surprise
The most beautiful head basket in Bagan!
My lovely longyi lady and I, in front of one of my favorite temples.
My laquer friend took me down the road, back to the family house where unfinished pieces were being worked on.
Local painters were easy to find.
Panoramas don’t get old in Bagan 🙂
Today: just ancient temples, Ebike, and me. 🙂
Intrepid in Asia 
